Cosmelan vs MelanoPro: Which Pigmentation Peel Is Right for You?

How the two best-known overnight pigmentation peels compare, and how to choose the right one for your skin.

By Farrah, Clinical Director · BSc Neuroscience, MSc Clinical Research · Updated 16 October 2026

Cosmelan and MelanoPro are two of the best-known professional peels for stubborn pigmentation, including melasma, sun spots and the brown marks left behind by acne. Both start with a mask applied in clinic and left on the skin for several hours, followed by a period of homecare. The differences lie in the ingredients, the homecare and how each treatment fits around your life.

Cosmelan vs MelanoPro at a glance

CosmelanMelanoPro
Made bymesoesteticDermalogica
In-clinic maskLeft on for 8 to 12 hoursLeft on for up to 8 hours
Key activesA blend of depigmenting activesAzelaic acid, tranexamic acid, retinol, niacinamide, plus salicylic, glycolic and lactic acids
Homecarecosmelan 2 cream, used in phases over the following monthsContinuous Resurfacing Cream, used for up to six weeks
DowntimeIntense peeling in the first week, with home cream continuing for several monthsModerate peeling in the first week, with gentle shedding while you use the home cream for up to six weeks
Typical cost in DerbyAround £1,200 to £1,250 at local clinics£350 at Neo Elegance, including your in-depth consultation, three treatments and home care kit
Skin tonesBrand states suitable for all skin typesBrand states suitable for all skin tones, including skin prone to post-inflammatory pigmentation
At our Derby clinicNot currently offeredThree-treatment package, £350

How Cosmelan works

Cosmelan begins with a depigmenting mask applied in clinic, which you leave on at home for 8 to 12 hours, depending on your skin. From two to three days later, you start the cosmelan 2 home cream, used several times a day at first and then less often as your skin settles. The home phase is what keeps pigment from returning, so it needs real commitment over several months.

How MelanoPro works

MelanoPro is a clinical-strength peel system that combines azelaic acid and tranexamic acid, which target pigment, with retinol, niacinamide and a mix of exfoliating acids that renew the skin’s surface. At our clinic the peel is left on the skin for up to 8 hours. From day three you use the Continuous Resurfacing Cream at home for up to six weeks, which keeps the results moving between treatments.

Which one is right for you?

Both peels can deliver excellent results. The right choice depends on your skin, not on the brand:

  • Your type of pigmentation. Melasma, sun damage and post-acne marks sit at different depths and have different triggers, so diagnosis comes first.
  • Your skin tone and sensitivity. Darker and more reactive skin needs a careful approach to avoid post-inflammatory pigmentation. MelanoPro is not suitable for highly sensitive skin, rosacea or eczema.
  • Your homecare commitment. Cosmelan relies on months of home cream. MelanoPro’s home phase is shorter, at up to six weeks.
  • Your diary. Both masks stay on for several hours, and both bring a few days of flaking, so plan around work and events.

Why pigmentation comes back

Pigment cells respond to signals from UV light, heat, hormones and inflammation. That is why melasma often returns after a holiday, during pregnancy or in a stressful period, whichever peel you choose. Calming inflammation, protecting the skin barrier and wearing SPF every day are what keep results lasting.

Our MelanoPro Pigment Peel package in Derby

We built our package around MelanoPro to fade pigmentation while improving texture and overall skin health. It includes three treatments, spaced a month apart, and a home skincare kit:

  1. MelanoPro peel. The overnight peel, left on the skin for up to 8 hours.
  2. Tranexamic acid and cysteamine peel. A targeted pigmentation peel to build on the first session.
  3. HydroCLEANSE Super Facial. To hydrate, brighten and restore bounce.
Before and after the MelanoPro Pigment Peel package at Neo Elegance Skin Clinic, Derby, showing reduced pigmentation and brighter, more even skinBeforeAfter
Results from our MelanoPro Pigment Peel package at our Derby clinic. Shared with client consent. Individual results vary.

The package starts with an in-depth consultation and patch test, so the £350 covers everything: your consultation, all three treatments and the home care kit.

Book the MelanoPro package · £350

If your pigmentation is mainly brown marks left by breakouts, read about our acne treatment in Derby, explore our pigmentation treatment in Derby, or see our other chemical peels.

Not ready to book the package?

Our Pigmentation Consultation and Personalised Plan looks at your pigmentation in depth and maps out the right treatments for your skin.

Book a pigmentation consultation

Sources: Dermalogica, MelanoPro Peel System · mesoestetic, cosmelan treatment

FAQs

Frequently asked questions

Is Cosmelan or MelanoPro better for melasma?

Both are used to treat melasma. Melasma is driven by hormones, heat and sun exposure, so it can return with either peel. The best results come from choosing the right peel for your skin, then protecting it with daily SPF and maintenance treatments.

How long do you leave the mask on?

The cosmelan mask is left on for 8 to 12 hours, timed by your practitioner. At our clinic, the MelanoPro peel stays on the skin for up to 8 hours, so plan your day around it.

What is the downtime?

In our experience, Cosmelan brings intense peeling in the first week, while MelanoPro brings moderate peeling. A home phase follows while the skin continues to renew: up to six weeks with MelanoPro, and several months with Cosmelan. Most people plan treatment around a quieter week, away from events or holidays.

How much is MelanoPro in Derby?

Our MelanoPro Pigment Peel package is £350. It includes an in-depth consultation, three treatments spaced a month apart and a home skincare kit.

Do you offer Cosmelan in Derby?

We do not currently offer Cosmelan. Our Lead Aesthetics Practitioner, Fiz, is trained in it, so we can talk you through how the two compare at your consultation.

Are these peels safe for darker skin tones?

Both brands state their peels are suitable for all skin tones. Darker skin is more prone to post-inflammatory pigmentation, so a patch test, an experienced practitioner and a careful homecare plan matter.

Begin with your skin consultation

An in-depth assessment of your skin and a personalised plan, so every treatment that follows is the right one.

Book your consultation